WITCHCRAFT
WITCHES,
WITCH-DOCTORS, AND THE
MAGIC THEATRE
" Rapung's
uncle, the temple-keeper and a famous story-teller, had
great magic powers but he did not practise evil magic. When
he was deprived of his office as keeper of the temple because
of a scandalous love affair, he created such a disturbance
that he was thrown into jail. Although supposedly locked
tip in a cell. he was seen at night in the village and it
was said that often1slept in his own house. He used his
magic knowledge mainly a defence against his enemies, and,
as in the case of the Pemetjutan wayang show, he gave the
names of leyaks in wayang performances through the Twalen
puppet. Once his lamp went out during the performance and,
without stopping, he spit on the wick and the light flared
up again. He held a memorable battle with a leyak chief
disguised as a one-winged garuda bird fought him in the
form of a baldheaded raksasa. He was defied by the chief
of Blahbatoeh, a famous witch; the story-teller took up
the challenge and turned into a sea that engulfed the leyak,
turned into a mad motor-car."
Most
frequently leyaks appear as dancing flames flitting from
grave to grave in cemeteries, feeding on newly buried corpse,
or as balls of fire and living shadowlike white cloths,
but also in the shapes of weird animals: pigs, dogs, monkeys,
or tigers. Witches often assume the form of beautiful mute
girls who make obscene advances to young men on lonely roads
at night.

Leyaks
.ire, however, progressive and now they are said to prefer
more modern shapes for their transformations; motor-ears
and bicycles that run in and out of temples without drivers
and whose tires pulsate as if breathing. There are even
leyak airplanes sweeping over the roof-tops after midnight.
Children cry during the night because they see leyaks that
become invisible on approaching to gnaw at their entrails.
Then the child becomes sick and soon dies; that explains
the high death-rate among children.
The
ever unwilling patients of the modern hospital in Den Pasar
claim to have seen strange shadows under doors and flocks
of monkeys that grimace at them through the windows; the
congregation of sick, magically weakened people naturally
attracts legions of leyaks and for this reason they fear
having to go to the hospital. Witches congregate under the
kepuh trees always found in cemeteries, but they are also
attracted to the " male " papaya tree (that which bears
no fruit) and like to carry on their orgies of blood and
their love affairs under its shadow; consequently these
trees are never permitted to grow within the village limits.
I
was told that to see the leyaks that happen to be about,
one must stand naked and, bending over suddenly, look between
one's legs. They can be recognized by the flames (endeh)
that issue out of their hanging tongues and from the top
of their heads. This does not work with foreigners, because
the levaks " are shy and do not show themselves to outsiders
"; thus, even the Balinese who fear leyaks so that they
dare not mention the word leyak are not in the least impressed
with the bravery of a skeptical stranger who walks alone
at night into a cemetery or some such leyak-ridden place.Oueen
of the leyaks and undoubtedly the most interesting character
on the island is the blood-thirsty, child-eating Rangda,
the witch-widow mistress of black magic.

A
curious ceremony in the temple of a neighbouring village
introduced Rangda to us. It was well after midnight, and
although the date for the temple feast was still far off,
there was a crowd, mostly women, in the courtyard sitting
in a circle around a man who appeared to be in a trance.
Next to him sat the old pemangku, the temple priest, quiet
all concentrating attending to the incense that burned in
a clay brazier before a monstrous mask with enormous fangs.
The
community, it seemed, was having a wave of bad luck and
they were asking Rangda to advise them, through the medium,
of what she quired to leave them alone. The stillness of
the night, the incese, and the dim light of the petrol lamp,
all aided the feeling that the spirit of the dreaded witch
was really there. Soon the oracle began to twitch and foam
at the mouth, making painful efforts to talk.
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